Monday, March 11, 2024

We started off our first day with a quick breakfast at the Combo Hotel, before leaving for the island of Murano. Travel in the Venice area is mostly done either by foot or by vaporetto, a form of water taxi; we took the vaporetto for about half an hour before arriving in Murano. Vaporettos were our main form of transportation throughout this trip!

Murano is well-known for its role in Venetian glassmaking throughout history - in the past, long lines of glassmaking families would secretively develop and produce glass for export to the rest of the world. We visited the factory of one such family, where we were given a tour by Piero Nason of NasonMoretti. He briefly gave an overview of the company, which was founded in 1923 by the Nason and Moretti families. Over the years it became well-known for producing cups and bowls;

today, the company’s roughly 20 employees continue this tradition, producing artisanal glassware in partnership with independent designers and brands like Dolce & Gabbana. Mr. Nason explained some of the struggles his company has recently faced in preserving Muranese glassmaking: the factory had to shut down due to the Covid-19 pandemic, the recent war in Ukraine drove natural gas prices up dramatically, and a lack of interest has made it hard to find talent. Nonetheless, the factory we entered was full of life. Mr. Nason described the manufacturing process of its glassware behind a backdrop of an active production run. The company sources the raw materials for its glass and colorants from two main locations: sand from France and vibrant metals like cobalt and lithium from China. After preparing the initial mixtures - the formulations of which are a

closely-guarded secret - they are melted in a large kiln, which acts as a reservoir for molten glass. Glassblowers take a blowpipe - a long, hollow steel tube - and dip the end of it inside the kiln, picking up a blob of molten glass, which looks deceivingly inconspicuous, like honey. Constantly rotating the blowpipe to avoid drippage, they then mold and shape the blob as it cools into their desired form. We also got a tour of NasonMoretti’s showroom, where they store previous speciality works, such as duotone cups and bowls, pieces with color gradients, or white filigrees. Afterwards, we said goodbye to Mr. Nason and left the factory. ■

Mr. Nason pointing out the difference between a freshly cut bowl with a sharp rim and one with a smooth, processed rim

Glassblowers in NasonMoretti demonstrate ​how to make a pitcher

For the rest of the day we were accompanied by Professor Cristina Beltrami, a local historian. She led us to the Abate Zanetti Glass School where she had prepared a lecture on the history of glass. During her presentation, we learned about the glassblowing tradition of Murano. In the past when Venice was still a powerful city-state - independent of Italy - it boasted the world’s premier glassmaking industry. The Venetians developed many important innovations pertaining to glass, such as cristallo glass: a unique formulation of glass that was prized for its unparalleled clarity, relative strength, and workability. The Venetians were also famous for their unique colored glasses, which were extremely vibrant in color. Eventually, glassmaking production was moved to Murano, which was for a variety of reasons - namely to prevent fires from the constantly running

glass furnaces and concentrate Venetian glassmaking knowledge in an easily controllable region. The Venetians were defensive of their know-how, even from their fellow countrymen; families would closely guard their specific formulations for colors and other characteristics from neighboring studios and factories. The Venetian government forbade glassmakers from leaving Murano to protect industry secrets. Despite being trapped on Murano, such artisans were treated as nobles and were generally well-respected within society. Thus, Venice maintained a monopoly on glassmaking for many years, until its secrets eventually leaked out. ■

After lunch, we headed to the Murano Glass Museum where Cristina led us on a guided tour of the exhibits. First, she showed us a small courtyard behind the museum, where some of Murano’s limited greenspace can be seen. We then followed her into the museum, where we saw several ornate glass vessels and chandeliers. Many of these made use of traditional Venetian techniques, including elaborate cane patterns called ‘reticello,’ while others attempted to mimic the look of ceramic pieces. The next room held a large glass centerpiece that completely covered the table. The museum’s centerpiece was rare in that it was a complete set - when glass centerpieces were popular, it was common to let guests take a piece home with them after a gathering, so few complete centerpieces

remain. After walking through a small gallery showcasing glass beads, we got a close look at several small but intricate murrine artworks. As we learned from our previous trip to Salem Community College, murrine is produced by layering several colored glass canes to form an image, drawing the image out into a long tube, and cutting the tube to form several small slices. After the murrine exhibit, we viewed exhibits showcasing more modern glass art. Characterized by their unique forms and bright colors, these pieces drastically differed from the previous historical exhibits. Finally, we were led to the featured gallery for a special exhibition of NasonMoretti company. It featured signature pieces from the company in Murano. The pieces were cups of every shape and color, artfully arranged on the surfaces of the gallery. It was a beautiful showcase of the diverse possibilities of glass art and the local talent of Murano. ■

Dinner

Our first day in Venice was one to remember. I traveled by vaporetto for the first time, tried clam pasta, and got to see the behind the scenes of an amazing glass business. When we first got to Venice, I was struck by how beautiful the architecture was. From just a short walk, you could tell that Venice had a rich history. When we got to the NasonMoretti factory, it was really cool to watch each step of the process. We got to see the raw materials that give the glass different colors, the glassblowing process, the annealing (cooling) machine, the sanding down of any sharp edges, and the quality control inspection before packaging. After getting to visit the factory, it was fun to point out where we saw NasonMoretti products across Venice.

It was hard to top that, but the museum came close. We got to learn about how much glass has evolved over history, and the creative techniques artists have used to create these beautiful pieces. One of my favorites was a collection of glass vases that were a cream color. They looked so similar to ceramics, but they were still glass! The museum’s exhibitions showcased just how versatile glass can be. I also enjoyed how they included some pieces that had been made recently. The mosaics that had references to pop culture and social media showed how these techniques are still used by artists today, but with a twist. Overall we had an amazing first day in Venice, and it was a great way to start the trip!

Our first day in Venice was unforgettable. Since it was our first time seeing the city in full daylight, I was immediately struck by the gorgeous architecture and vivid colors. Walking through the streets of Murano and photographing all of the beautiful buildings and canals was probably my favorite part of the day. The island completely embodied the interplay between art, history, and culture.

I also really enjoyed going to the NasonMoretti glass factory. It was fascinating to watch the glassblowers employ techniques we had learned about in glass. After our tour of the factory, we were invited into the showroom, where we saw pieces of every shape, size, and color. The experience showed me how diverse glass art can be and gave me a whole new appreciation for glass artists.

During the glass history lecture, I was amazed at the central role that Murano played in the development of glass art. I also learned that glass art has evolved considerably over time, from small, symmetrical vessels to larger and more elaborate pieces. The glass museum was a perfect follow up to the lecture. There, we got to see pieces made with the same techniques we had just learned about in the lecture. My favorite pieces were made using the traditional Venetian technique of reticello. In this technique, artists overlap glass canes in a crisscross fashion to produce a net-like pattern.

Ultimately, I had an amazing experience on our first day in Venice. With each new experience, I gained a deeper appreciation for the city’s rich history and the enduring legacy of its glassmaking tradition.

Our first day in Venice was amazing. One of the most memorable details of the day was the city’s beautiful appearance - its architecture and canals were awe-inspiringly beautiful, especially contrasted with the clear sky. Throughout the day, I was constantly amazed by the buildings we passed and the history they contained; later on in the trip we would learn that new construction is rare in Venice, meaning that many buildings - such as our hotel - are centuries old.

My favorite part of the day, however, was getting to learn about Venice’s rich history and culture. I especially liked the tour of NasonMoretti’s factory because it combined aspects of history and physical demonstrations. In class we had learned about how glassmaking formed the backbone of Murano’s industry in the past; it was interesting to walk around in a still-active factory and meet an actual descendant of the Nason family.

I also enjoyed getting to see the full process of glassmaking from start to finish. I was surprised by how hands-on most of NasonMoretti’s work was - despite being produced for mass production, almost all of the pieces we saw were being created by hand. The factory had a lot of machines such as industrial mixers and a conveyor belt for the annealing oven, but there was still a clear emphasis on human talent throughout the production process. This was also evident at Abate Zanetti, during our demonstration. Eros, our demonstrator, would make seemingly arbitrary decisions, such as to spin the blowpipe at a particular speed to centrifugally deform his piece, which magically coalesced into complex, aesthetically-pleasing pieces.

It was amazing to witness the skill of all the glassblowers we met on our first day, and the fact that they were but a small manifestation of a long lineage of glassmaking. Our first day was an unforgettable and inspiring experience, to say the least.